Motorhome News from Europe 9.
First of all, I have to add a footnote to the last newsletter, which omitted one particular birding day. When heading south from Monfrague to Aracena, where we spent a whole day driving along potholed narrow back roads, hunting for bustards. We saw loads of red kites, buzzards, black shouldered kites, great grey shrike, hoopoes and EIGHT LITTLE BUSTARDS - yes, they really do exist!
More recently, here on the south coast of Spain, our usual bird sightings are of Flamingos, Egrets, Stilts and more Kingfishers. We’ve found wetlands on the border between Portugal and Spain and again in the Donana National Park, around the estuary of the Quadalquivir River, between Huelva and Cadiz. Aren’t these some lovely names? Add Seville, Jerez, Tarifa and Tangiers to those and you have an overview of the area where we are now.
Seville. We loved Seville for its delicate structures and vibrant colours. Sauntering through a maze of cobbled strees and tiled arcades we walked until our feet ached, savouring its culture, history and many different districts. Seville has the most amazing cathedral, impressively huge and packed with art treasures, and the alcazar, a palace built in a mixture of styles but predominantly mudejar (or muslim) with wonderful plasterwork, arches, tiles, and lovely cool gardens. There is a certain magic to this city, a charming, warm-hearted haven in an area rich in its outstanding beauty, and history ringing in its bones.
Before moving on to yet another city, Cadiz, we took a day off to seek out more of the local birdlife. Beyond the city boundaries the parched fields of olives and glowing rustic buildings offer tranquil surroundings for many of the local species satiating our desire to seek out the true rural nature and culture of this area we love so well. The sun shone as we entered Cadiz the next day, the white buildings gleamed dazzling white the sea reflected the azure blue of the sky. Cadiz is on a headland and the sea views all around are fabulous. There were many grand buildings, narrow, balconied alleyways, a domed baroque/neoclassical cathedral, two castles, palm trees and flat-roofed houses echoing nearby North Africa.
The coast just south of Cadiz suited us rather well we discovered. It wasn’t too developed, had an excellent campsite and offered the chance of golf that didn’t require a mortgage, so we stayed for three days; most unlike us, but we could get used to it. In addition to a round of golf (to keep the hand in, you understand), we walked barefoot on deserted beaches and made the truly British pilgrimage to Cabo de Trafalgar. This completed the hat-trick of visits this year linked to Nelson - we went with Aussie friends Brian and Kathryn to Burnham Thorpe, his birthplace, whilst they were with us at home in Norfolk, England, and whilst in Portsmouth en route by ferry for St Malo earlier this year we visited his ship, the Victory. Now we were honoured to look out on a tranquil sea that had once witnessed the great battle in which he was killed. We dreamed a while, contemplating the past and how that man and that day changed the history of Britain. Apart from a rather nondescript lighthouse, there is nothing at Cape Trafalgar; no plaque commemorating the battle, or souvenir shops, or museum. I suppose one doesn’t celebrate defeat. There were numerous Sanderling and Ringed Plovers dodging the waves and some interesting rock formations. Perfect, enhanced by the hazy view of Africa, stretched on the horizon across the Strait, in the distance.
Before leaving this area, we had to go to Jerez, where the sherry comes from. This time, we gave the bodegas (sherry factories) a miss and headed for the Andalucian Riding Academy. We missed the similar spectacle of horse and rider in Vienna when were last there - the horses were on tour in London!There in Herez, we made up for it; sitting on the terrace amongst the applauding crowd as we watched a display of dressage type horsemanship demonstrating the dexterity and enormous control between riders and horses. It was quite something to see, even though we’re not riders ourselves. We also needed enormous control and teamwork to get both in and out of Jerez. The town centre road was being dug up, so it was closed, as were numerous other side-streets, with no diversion signs (the signing was appalling). It took us about an hour and a half to find the riding school - and then the same again to find our way back out of town after the show! It was worth every moment.
Moving on to Tarifa, we were at the point where Europe is closest to Africa, Morocco to be precise ....and Tangiers to be exact. We just had to go, didn’t we? Tickets booked, our day trip was everything we have learned to hate about organised tours, but nevertheless it was an experience and an eye-opener. Suffice to say that within about four hours we witnessed everything from camels to the royal palace, from snake charmers to mosques, spices to carpets, couscous, kebabs, mint tea and endless “hawkers” trying to get us to buy bags, bracelets, baskets and brass camels. I now know what is meant by ‘Come with me to the Casbah’ and I also understand what is meant by ‘shopping’ in North Africa. Having had our senses battered by the Arab traders s in Tangiers, we were battered by the huge waves on our crossing back to Tarifa. The surrounding hills are covered with wind farms because it is a notoriously windy area and there was quite a gale blowing outside the motorhome later that evening. It was Guy Fawkes Night, November 5th, and Todd was missing the fireworks back home. C’est la vie. I wonder if they will be having fireworks in Gibraltar, our next port of call. Janice will be there to meet you in Marks and Spencers, at around 12 O'clock. OK?
David and Janice
The Grey Haired Nomads
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